She is a Hong Kong designer known the world over for her floral, one-size-fits-all dresses. Now Diane Freis, whose creative drive sent a fresh type of flower power on to the catwalk in the 1980s and put Hong Kong design into top stores across the globe, has branched into an exciting new era, combining trademark innovation with sleek sophistication to add exotic elegance to womenswear.

In the mid-1990s, American-born Freis took time out of the spotlight to redefine herself. New designs took shape and by the end of the decade she was ready to reinvent the Freis style file. In came layered and beaded eveningwear, silk dresses, knitwear and skirt-blouse ensembles and a look that reflected her long-established affinity with the East. "It's an evolution not a total change. I don't think any designer can do that. They keep their signature one way or another." Freis said.

For Freis, these evolving lines mark the third cycle in her design career, with a love of colour, texture and attention to fine detail the signature transcending all three.

The first phase began as a UCLA graduate, when she accompanied a friend to some Los Angeles antique stores and came across the old, textured fabrics that would determine the course of her life. It was the early 1970s, Freis had a degree in fine arts and was heading for a Master's when she took those antique fabrics home and tipped them out of the bag.

"There were lumps of fabric all over the floor, some like a pile carpet." she said. "I was enjoying looking at the material for what it was. Then I saw jackets and came up with a design." Those first dozen hand-sewed jackets sold immediately - to celebrities. It was a dramatic start and there would be no going back.

The second arose after a 1974 visit to Hong Kong to see a friend and source materials. Fired with enthusiasm for the city's energy, which matched her own, and its capacity for garment production, she decided to make a move. Those famous florals were the result. "It was all based on finding magnificent fabrics in the Hong Kong markets. This time, I didn't see jackets, I saw dresses." she said.

With help from TDC's Young Designer Fashion Show, the Freis phenomenon of colourful, polyester dresses with elasticated waists for easy fitting was on its way. "I didn't do anything specific to market my clothes and didn't realise I was setting a new trend. The world had been waiting for it and I had no idea."

The timing of her design venture in Hong Kong was also excellent. The city was starting its phenomenal rise to retail fashion splendour. In the late 1970s, however, it was still in its infancy and Freis' dynamic designs and courage in opening her own boutique were a bright spot on an otherwise limited horizon.

"Hong Kong then was such a miserable place to shop." she said. "Expatriate women were bringing in their clothes from overseas and Chinese ladies still had tailor-made garments. There was not a lot of choice. Lane Crawford, and that was about it."

"Now, all the big marketing names are desperate to have flagships here and want to capture and control the market. The Far East is very important to their success." she said. "Hong Kong at every level has achieved its potential and is expanding its level of development."